Molecular Gastronomy, Defined

A few weeks ago, a friend and partner in crime on food expeditions told me she really wasn't sure what the term "molecular gastronomy" meant.  I think our discussion was elicited by my use of the term in a previous post.  I tried to answer the question, but couldn't say much, other than babble about science and new techniques applied to the culinary domain.  I was not satisfied with my answer. 

Now, after weeks of continuous study, drinking, and goat sacrifice, I've located a seminal paper (PDF, actually) on the subject: "Molecular gastronomy: a scientific look to cooking" by Hervé This.  Dr. This and the late Dr. Nicholas Kurti are considered the parents of the term molecular gastronomy.  The paper contains a definition of the term.  (I'm guessing the paper was originally written in another language and translated to English.) 

If you prefer the CliffsNotes-type version, Wikipedia has an article on molecular gastronomy. 

On the other hand, if you're already burned out on the term, perhaps this apparel would interest you.  :)

Comments

[Maura]

I've been trying for weeks to comment on this, but every time I start, I get a headache. I'm still trying to figure out what the hell MG is. Trying to decipher a definition is like trying to make sense of an architecture review - say what?

I had quite a discussion on Michael Ruhlman's blog about it. I was called suzy homemaker and holier than thou. I think it's not so much that experimentation for the sake of it that bugs me. It's the condescending attitude of some of its practitioners. What set me off was a chef who said that MG was *the* future of cooking, and that the day of putting protein in a hot pan was pretty much over. In whose world? Please explain that to this home cook who still thinks there's nothing quite as fabulous as a roast chicken, roasted vegetables and homemade bread for dinner. With homemade brownies and ice cream for dessert.

Anyway, I've come to the conclusion that, unlike nouvelle cuisine, MG probably doesn't have trickle down potential into home kitchens. That's OK. It's a practice for chefs at a particular level within the industry, and it's something you're only going to get at a select few restaurants. I still think it's kind of precious - I don't need my food to be clever, ironic or witty. Nor do I want it to wink at me. Unless it's a raw oyster. I don't fault the chefs who are messing around with this stuff. But don't tell me that my method of cooking is now archaic, unless you're going to help me get all the equipment for foams and smoke and whatever the hell else you use. And I'd appreciate an definition that doesn't require PhDs in chemistry and pedantry.

[Maura]

That should be "a definition", not "an definition". Those nuns who taught English to me are probably spinning in their graves.

[David Felton]

I remember reading about Chef Ferran Adria and the new 'molecular gastronomy' a few years ago.
I found the article fascinating. Adria sounded like an interesting character in a field full of them. Looking now at the eBulli restaurant site I bet that I read the New York Times Magazine article from 2003. I can't say whether or not the term 'm.g.' was used in that article, but it is definitely what Adria was getting a lot of attention for. The eBulli website looks pretty amazing. If I were one of the wealthy cosmopolitan jet-set I wouldn't mind trying some fancy foam food at a fine restaurant on the coast of Spain, but I definitely don't see myself trying any of it at home anytime soon. And the suggestion that the days of putting protein in a hot pan are over is to me a perfect example of the ridiculousness of the 'avant garde'. I don't know if I am going to read the scientific paper on it but I find it all pleasantly curious. I also wonder how much of the current discussions on the subject online could either be traced back to that dude with the big hair on "Top Chef" who was a 'molecular gastronomist' I guess, and the Achewood cartoon which Joe shared?

[Joe]

Maura's original comment at Ruhlman's blog is here, and the post it inspred on Accidental Hedonist is here.

David: from what I hear, Adrià is amazing, but I'll probably never be able to make it to his restaurant in person. :) And he is the person who seems to be in the vanguard as far as people reputed to be doing doing m.g. are concerned. / I've never seen Top Chef because I don't have cable, so I don't know who you're talking about there.

[Maura]

David, I think Marcel on Top Chef had a lot to do with bringing Molecular Gastronomy to the forefront. I doubt many people, other than those in the industry, had heard the term before.